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Customizing Tips & Tricks; Submit Or Request A Trick Of The Trade!
Topic Started: Dec 3 2006, 12:21 PM (19,408 Views)
GothicCarsUrban
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SUV
funeralxempire
Aug 11 2012, 10:25 PM
Older Matchbox style suspension, also found in Yat-Ming and Maistro vehicles makes axle swaps dead-simple.

Leaving a bit of a jagged tab at the top of the rivet post gives you something to bend over to seal the car back together without using epoxy. If you do use epoxy though, it drills out really easily so if you want to make alterations you'll still be able to.
Tomica, 70s/80s pre-Dynawheels Zylmex, Ertl and Kidco use a similar setup, some modern MBX do as well.

I use a "third hand" soldering tool with magnifying glass for anything involving interiors, zamac or tinplate bases, wheels on thin axles that have been wrapped in gauze and taped over, or wheels on unaltered thick (Racing Champions, Playing Mantis JL, Golden Wheel, Suntoys, Hongwell, Fresh Cherries, etc.) axles. You will need to screw, nail or bolt it to a wood surface or put it in a box of something heavy (I use a combination of Canadian pennies, old arcade tokens, glass aquarium stones and coarse gravel in a cigar box) to keep it anchored. Lighted third-hand tools are great, but more expensive and burn through batteries quickly.

Also, I use junker axles (rusty or not straight and usually off-brand or crude-wheeled ones) to put paint on small details, have used a paring knife to scratch off paint and expose shiny zamac for some types of trim.

Another idea I have, since I live in an apartment, will live in that or rental housing for the next few years or so, and want to limit the amount of paint, glue, JB Weld and dissolved Sharpie ink on the counters, is to get a medium-large wooden cutting board (about the size to go over a sink), screw the third-hand tool into it, put parts-holder trays, a place for small containers of water (one for decals, one for washing acrylic and tempera paint off of brushes), and a pill bottle to put bodies on, and use a piece of wood with nonslip tape on the bottom and canvas, vinyl or leather on top for anything that involves working on a nicely painted body or base so the paint doesn't get messed up.

Lastly... using a fishing tackle box (new, or clean, non-smelly gently used) to store bottled paint, small tools, spare parts, adhesives, brushes, sanding films, decal sheets, scissors, a folded drop cloth, etc. is a great idea. Wheels, parts for dezinging or zinging JLs, parts from junker castings that are to be used in other projects like interiors, glass and accessories and spare JL, Racing Champions and M2 engines are good things to keep in it.
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GothicCarsUrban
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SUV
Using *100% pure acetone* nail-polish remover (can be got at beauty supply stores, possibly drugstores) will soften most brands' paint enough to scrub the paint off with a scouring pad under hot water. Make sure the casting has been drilled open and you are only stripping zamac, not plastic or axle metal. Works great on 1990s and newer Hot Wheels.
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GothicCarsUrban
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SUV
Anything containing isopropyl or pure ethyl alcohol (around here, it's Axe, Lysol spray and rubbing alcohol-based antiseptic) will dissolve wet or partly dried JB Weld from any porous or solid surface. Using Lysol will also improve the smell of your work area.
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thelostcleric
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TheLostCleric
I found some of the aerosol paint stripper at Wal-Mart and it worked great. I used to strip done a Hot Wheels Haulin' Gas that had the Green Giant on it. I'm converting it to a Sunoco Gas Truck for my dio.

I found an empty paper towel roll (not my idea - say it on YouTube) works really well for repainting. It'll hold the body snug and far enough away from your hand to keep from spray painting it.

For the decals, I found a couple of different options, but I'm not sure which I will go with. Papilio (www.papilio.com) has inkjet printer sheets that can be wet decal transfer or dry rub transfer. I think the dry rub version may be about the closest anyone outside of the manufacturers can detail a diecast car.

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GothicCarsUrban
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SUV
Thanks for the info, lostcleric! :thumbup:

Clearcoated dry transfers seem like the closest thing we can get to homemade tampos.
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rcarwd1
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Midsize
Dr.Dremel
Apr 13 2007, 10:14 PM
WOW! It's been some time since this thread has had anything added.

Let me try to offer some tips to axel removal, and axel repair/replacement...

It is often asked by experienced and novice customizers " How do I remove the axels/wheels from the base (metal) of a casting? Those little metal "axel holdowns" can be a real pain,unless you have found simple ways to remove them...I prefer the following DREMEL bits to grind them out/off & release the axels in one piece (set). Here are the bits I reccomend...
Posted Image
They will grind thru the holddowns and release the axels, if you happen to go a little to deep, you can use a length of tubing (brass in this pic) to super glue the ends back in, and repair the axel.
For cutting through Hot Wheels axle hold downs, I've been using cheap $1 Craftsman angle snips. They can usually be found at isle end caps or in the $1 bins by the registers. I can remove the axles on about 20-30 cars before the blades are junk.
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rcarwd1
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Midsize
I was recently working on a small diorama and had super glued a gloss black 34 Ford to the base and put the cover on the diorama right after, forgetting about the fumes. I came back to move it an hour later and the superglue fumes had made a satin finish on the car.

I now put glossy cars on a piece of cardboard, put a few drops of super glue onto a corner, then cover it for an hour, and have perfect satin finishes.
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GothicCarsUrban
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SUV
Found a new way to create chrome, badge details and weatherstripping... artist's gel pens. Just be sure to put a *tiny* bit of clear nail polish, clear paint or Future wax over it since not all brands adhere to zamac, whether painted or not.
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cody6268
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Minivan
I use electrical tape to wrap my car bodies with when I'm drilling the cars apart, to prevent the vise from causing damage to the car. Just remember to not cover the area near the rivets if possible. If it's not possible, just use a hobby knife to cut the tape covering. the rivet.
Edited by cody6268, May 11 2014, 09:12 PM.
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Hosspower98
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Forever Blue Oval
Vise? Yikes! Just get a ball of silly putty or modelers clay. I vise is like a crusher.
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cody6268
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Minivan
Hosspower98
May 12 2014, 10:33 AM
Vise? Yikes! Just get a ball of silly putty or modelers clay. I vise is like a crusher.
I now just hold it against a towel with my hand. Worked pretty good for a MBX No. 29 Fire Pumper in which I had to fish out the piece of the window with the beacon (which seems to frequently be broken on these) and put it back into place. Not sure exactly how this will work with a Regular Wheel Binz ambulance that I'm going to swap the glass with a beater Superfast's glass, as the beacon will get in the way, as I'm afraid I will bend the glass.
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cody6268
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Minivan
Over the course of a couple quick breaks I had today, I was able to remove all the burgundy-ish purple repaint ( the truck was found maybe 12 years ago, and Mom repainted it that color, big mistake) off a Tootsietoy '48 Ford tanker, while leaving the tiny bit of remaining red-orange paint unharmed. I used Greased Lightning, as that what was setting next to the basement sink. It worked in the matter of a couple hours, as that's approximately how long I let it set while doing my college work. I scrubbed the loose paint off with an old toothbrush and steel wool. A wire brush would have worked better, but I didn't have one handy.
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Stangfreak
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Convertible
I posted this in the regular forum before I realized this one was here. Anyway it can remain here and not fade out...
Here's a great tip for removing pressed on wheels for swapping:


I cut these slots in a large screw driver and a small screw driver:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Use the large screw driver to fit over the hubs on the back of the wheel and pry easily:

Posted Image

Once the wheel is out far enough, use the small screw driver to fit over the axle and pry the rest of the way off:

Posted Image

Posted Image

You can also use the large screw driver to hold the wheel face down to pull the axle from the wheel with a pair of plyers...
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Stangfreak
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Convertible
I have added a new page to my site to help with photographing our beloved little cars. I hope this can be helpful to everyone!!!

http://www.diecastfun.4t.com/photo4_3.html
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W Gee
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Station Wagon
Thanks for the tips :thumbup: :D
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avalanche man
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avalanches rule
i might need to try that screwdriver thing soon
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DinoMom
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Fullsize
Does anyone have any advice for building chainlink fences on the cheap? S scale preferably (:
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GothicCarsUrban
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SUV
DinoMom
Aug 15 2016, 05:27 PM
Does anyone have any advice for building chainlink fences on the cheap? S scale preferably (:
Bug screen for windows or doors, cut to shape, with golf tees for posts, is how I hope to build mine
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DinoMom
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Fullsize
GothicCarsUrban
Aug 15 2016, 05:50 PM
DinoMom
Aug 15 2016, 05:27 PM
Does anyone have any advice for building chainlink fences on the cheap? S scale preferably (:
Bug screen for windows or doors, cut to shape, with golf tees for posts, is how I hope to build mine
aren't they quite expensive to buy? I wouldn't know where to buy bug screens here, even with the hot weather they're not a feature seen in this country.
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GothicCarsUrban
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SUV
DinoMom
Aug 15 2016, 07:21 PM
GothicCarsUrban
Aug 15 2016, 05:50 PM
DinoMom
Aug 15 2016, 05:27 PM
Does anyone have any advice for building chainlink fences on the cheap? S scale preferably (:
Bug screen for windows or doors, cut to shape, with golf tees for posts, is how I hope to build mine
aren't they quite expensive to buy? I wouldn't know where to buy bug screens here, even with the hot weather they're not a feature seen in this country.
I get mine used from a building materials recycling yard
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Pixel
Subcompact
I use aircraft stripper to strip cars, it has a snot-like consistency and likes to get everywhere. This is what I use to keep it contained.

I bought an empty gallon paint can and a roller screen at HD for under $10.

Posted Image

The paint screen is designed to hang like this, but that would keep me from being able to close the lid w/o pulling the screen out.

Posted Image

Some rough measuring & a quick bend near the bottom and now it fits like this, and the lid can close over it.

Posted Image

A quart of stripper poured in the bottom and the can was ready. I bent some "S" shapes out of wire. All I have to do is hook one end of the S around a windshield pillar and bend the loop closed(so the car doesn't fall off), and I can dunk the car in the stripper, swirl it around a little and hang it from the screen so the extra stripper and loose paint can drip back into the bottom the can. The can below has 8 bodies hanging in it.

Posted Image
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Ripa
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Minivan
Sounds good! Does the stripper get the paint totally dissolved in the liquid, or do you have to scrub it off after pulling the cars out of the can?

I have a similar method for a jar but I use acetone. Works pretty well but the paint is still on the car as a thin, loose layer though and needs to be swiped off with a nylon or soft wire brush.
Edited by Ripa, Nov 11 2016, 01:17 AM.
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Pixel
Subcompact
It seems to depend on the manufacturer & color. Some will release the paint and it will fall off as one big piece, others it comes off in bits and you still have to fight.

The Hot Wheels Real Rider cars with the licensed tampos are the worst, they are color/tampo/clear and I have yet to find anything that cuts through all that well.
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Ripa
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Minivan
I have noticed that getting paint off from old Sikus is the hardest - the top coat comes off easily but there is some kind of primer underneath it that even resists acetone pretty well.
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Stangfreak
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Convertible
Once again, with a little more explanation how to get those press on wheels off without breaking:

A great tip for removing and swapping pull off wheels:
I have broken a few wheels by trying to pull them off with my fingers. I took two screw drivers and cut slots in the ends of both:


Posted Image

Posted Image

Use the larger one to pry between the chassis and back of the wheel. It will fit completely over the hub on the back of the wheel to pry out enough to get the smaller one between the chassis and over the axle :

Posted Image

Use the smaller one to fit over the axle and pry all the way off. You may have to pull a little on some wheels. This cuts down big time on broken wheels!!!

Posted Image

Posted Image
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