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| Customizing Tips & Tricks; Submit Or Request A Trick Of The Trade! | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Dec 3 2006, 12:21 PM (19,408 Views) | |
| GothicCarsUrban | Jun 7 2013, 04:36 AM Post #51 |
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SUV
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Tomica, 70s/80s pre-Dynawheels Zylmex, Ertl and Kidco use a similar setup, some modern MBX do as well. I use a "third hand" soldering tool with magnifying glass for anything involving interiors, zamac or tinplate bases, wheels on thin axles that have been wrapped in gauze and taped over, or wheels on unaltered thick (Racing Champions, Playing Mantis JL, Golden Wheel, Suntoys, Hongwell, Fresh Cherries, etc.) axles. You will need to screw, nail or bolt it to a wood surface or put it in a box of something heavy (I use a combination of Canadian pennies, old arcade tokens, glass aquarium stones and coarse gravel in a cigar box) to keep it anchored. Lighted third-hand tools are great, but more expensive and burn through batteries quickly. Also, I use junker axles (rusty or not straight and usually off-brand or crude-wheeled ones) to put paint on small details, have used a paring knife to scratch off paint and expose shiny zamac for some types of trim. Another idea I have, since I live in an apartment, will live in that or rental housing for the next few years or so, and want to limit the amount of paint, glue, JB Weld and dissolved Sharpie ink on the counters, is to get a medium-large wooden cutting board (about the size to go over a sink), screw the third-hand tool into it, put parts-holder trays, a place for small containers of water (one for decals, one for washing acrylic and tempera paint off of brushes), and a pill bottle to put bodies on, and use a piece of wood with nonslip tape on the bottom and canvas, vinyl or leather on top for anything that involves working on a nicely painted body or base so the paint doesn't get messed up. Lastly... using a fishing tackle box (new, or clean, non-smelly gently used) to store bottled paint, small tools, spare parts, adhesives, brushes, sanding films, decal sheets, scissors, a folded drop cloth, etc. is a great idea. Wheels, parts for dezinging or zinging JLs, parts from junker castings that are to be used in other projects like interiors, glass and accessories and spare JL, Racing Champions and M2 engines are good things to keep in it. |
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| GothicCarsUrban | Jun 30 2013, 01:10 AM Post #52 |
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SUV
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Using *100% pure acetone* nail-polish remover (can be got at beauty supply stores, possibly drugstores) will soften most brands' paint enough to scrub the paint off with a scouring pad under hot water. Make sure the casting has been drilled open and you are only stripping zamac, not plastic or axle metal. Works great on 1990s and newer Hot Wheels. |
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| GothicCarsUrban | Aug 2 2013, 06:08 AM Post #53 |
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SUV
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Anything containing isopropyl or pure ethyl alcohol (around here, it's Axe, Lysol spray and rubbing alcohol-based antiseptic) will dissolve wet or partly dried JB Weld from any porous or solid surface. Using Lysol will also improve the smell of your work area. |
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| thelostcleric | Oct 30 2013, 01:17 AM Post #54 |
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TheLostCleric
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I found some of the aerosol paint stripper at Wal-Mart and it worked great. I used to strip done a Hot Wheels Haulin' Gas that had the Green Giant on it. I'm converting it to a Sunoco Gas Truck for my dio. I found an empty paper towel roll (not my idea - say it on YouTube) works really well for repainting. It'll hold the body snug and far enough away from your hand to keep from spray painting it. For the decals, I found a couple of different options, but I'm not sure which I will go with. Papilio (www.papilio.com) has inkjet printer sheets that can be wet decal transfer or dry rub transfer. I think the dry rub version may be about the closest anyone outside of the manufacturers can detail a diecast car. |
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| GothicCarsUrban | Nov 2 2013, 11:51 PM Post #55 |
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SUV
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Thanks for the info, lostcleric! ![]() Clearcoated dry transfers seem like the closest thing we can get to homemade tampos. |
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| rcarwd1 | Mar 30 2014, 11:55 AM Post #56 |
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Midsize
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For cutting through Hot Wheels axle hold downs, I've been using cheap $1 Craftsman angle snips. They can usually be found at isle end caps or in the $1 bins by the registers. I can remove the axles on about 20-30 cars before the blades are junk. |
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| rcarwd1 | Mar 30 2014, 12:11 PM Post #57 |
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Midsize
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I was recently working on a small diorama and had super glued a gloss black 34 Ford to the base and put the cover on the diorama right after, forgetting about the fumes. I came back to move it an hour later and the superglue fumes had made a satin finish on the car. I now put glossy cars on a piece of cardboard, put a few drops of super glue onto a corner, then cover it for an hour, and have perfect satin finishes. |
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| GothicCarsUrban | May 11 2014, 05:33 PM Post #58 |
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SUV
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Found a new way to create chrome, badge details and weatherstripping... artist's gel pens. Just be sure to put a *tiny* bit of clear nail polish, clear paint or Future wax over it since not all brands adhere to zamac, whether painted or not. |
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| cody6268 | May 11 2014, 09:12 PM Post #59 |
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Minivan
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I use electrical tape to wrap my car bodies with when I'm drilling the cars apart, to prevent the vise from causing damage to the car. Just remember to not cover the area near the rivets if possible. If it's not possible, just use a hobby knife to cut the tape covering. the rivet.
Edited by cody6268, May 11 2014, 09:12 PM.
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| Hosspower98 | May 12 2014, 10:33 AM Post #60 |
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Forever Blue Oval
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Vise? Yikes! Just get a ball of silly putty or modelers clay. I vise is like a crusher. |
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| cody6268 | Jun 9 2014, 03:28 PM Post #61 |
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Minivan
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I now just hold it against a towel with my hand. Worked pretty good for a MBX No. 29 Fire Pumper in which I had to fish out the piece of the window with the beacon (which seems to frequently be broken on these) and put it back into place. Not sure exactly how this will work with a Regular Wheel Binz ambulance that I'm going to swap the glass with a beater Superfast's glass, as the beacon will get in the way, as I'm afraid I will bend the glass. |
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| cody6268 | Nov 25 2014, 01:47 PM Post #62 |
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Minivan
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Over the course of a couple quick breaks I had today, I was able to remove all the burgundy-ish purple repaint ( the truck was found maybe 12 years ago, and Mom repainted it that color, big mistake) off a Tootsietoy '48 Ford tanker, while leaving the tiny bit of remaining red-orange paint unharmed. I used Greased Lightning, as that what was setting next to the basement sink. It worked in the matter of a couple hours, as that's approximately how long I let it set while doing my college work. I scrubbed the loose paint off with an old toothbrush and steel wool. A wire brush would have worked better, but I didn't have one handy. |
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| Stangfreak | Oct 4 2015, 09:05 AM Post #63 |
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Convertible
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I posted this in the regular forum before I realized this one was here. Anyway it can remain here and not fade out... Here's a great tip for removing pressed on wheels for swapping: I cut these slots in a large screw driver and a small screw driver: ![]() ![]() Use the large screw driver to fit over the hubs on the back of the wheel and pry easily: ![]() Once the wheel is out far enough, use the small screw driver to fit over the axle and pry the rest of the way off: ![]() ![]() You can also use the large screw driver to hold the wheel face down to pull the axle from the wheel with a pair of plyers... |
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| Stangfreak | Oct 16 2015, 09:59 AM Post #64 |
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Convertible
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I have added a new page to my site to help with photographing our beloved little cars. I hope this can be helpful to everyone!!! http://www.diecastfun.4t.com/photo4_3.html |
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| W Gee | Oct 16 2015, 05:44 PM Post #65 |
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Station Wagon
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Thanks for the tips
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| avalanche man | Mar 18 2016, 03:01 PM Post #66 |
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avalanches rule
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i might need to try that screwdriver thing soon |
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| DinoMom | Aug 15 2016, 05:27 PM Post #67 |
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Fullsize
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Does anyone have any advice for building chainlink fences on the cheap? S scale preferably (: |
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| GothicCarsUrban | Aug 15 2016, 05:50 PM Post #68 |
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SUV
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Bug screen for windows or doors, cut to shape, with golf tees for posts, is how I hope to build mine |
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| DinoMom | Aug 15 2016, 07:21 PM Post #69 |
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Fullsize
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aren't they quite expensive to buy? I wouldn't know where to buy bug screens here, even with the hot weather they're not a feature seen in this country. |
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| GothicCarsUrban | Aug 17 2016, 01:41 AM Post #70 |
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SUV
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I get mine used from a building materials recycling yard |
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| Pixel | Nov 10 2016, 02:39 PM Post #71 |
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Subcompact
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I use aircraft stripper to strip cars, it has a snot-like consistency and likes to get everywhere. This is what I use to keep it contained. I bought an empty gallon paint can and a roller screen at HD for under $10. ![]() The paint screen is designed to hang like this, but that would keep me from being able to close the lid w/o pulling the screen out. ![]() Some rough measuring & a quick bend near the bottom and now it fits like this, and the lid can close over it. ![]() A quart of stripper poured in the bottom and the can was ready. I bent some "S" shapes out of wire. All I have to do is hook one end of the S around a windshield pillar and bend the loop closed(so the car doesn't fall off), and I can dunk the car in the stripper, swirl it around a little and hang it from the screen so the extra stripper and loose paint can drip back into the bottom the can. The can below has 8 bodies hanging in it.
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| Ripa | Nov 11 2016, 01:17 AM Post #72 |
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Minivan
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Sounds good! Does the stripper get the paint totally dissolved in the liquid, or do you have to scrub it off after pulling the cars out of the can? I have a similar method for a jar but I use acetone. Works pretty well but the paint is still on the car as a thin, loose layer though and needs to be swiped off with a nylon or soft wire brush. Edited by Ripa, Nov 11 2016, 01:17 AM.
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| Pixel | Nov 11 2016, 08:52 AM Post #73 |
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Subcompact
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It seems to depend on the manufacturer & color. Some will release the paint and it will fall off as one big piece, others it comes off in bits and you still have to fight. The Hot Wheels Real Rider cars with the licensed tampos are the worst, they are color/tampo/clear and I have yet to find anything that cuts through all that well. |
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| Ripa | Nov 11 2016, 10:19 AM Post #74 |
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Minivan
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I have noticed that getting paint off from old Sikus is the hardest - the top coat comes off easily but there is some kind of primer underneath it that even resists acetone pretty well. |
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| Stangfreak | Feb 12 2017, 09:20 AM Post #75 |
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Convertible
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Once again, with a little more explanation how to get those press on wheels off without breaking: A great tip for removing and swapping pull off wheels: I have broken a few wheels by trying to pull them off with my fingers. I took two screw drivers and cut slots in the ends of both: ![]() ![]() Use the larger one to pry between the chassis and back of the wheel. It will fit completely over the hub on the back of the wheel to pry out enough to get the smaller one between the chassis and over the axle : ![]() Use the smaller one to fit over the axle and pry all the way off. You may have to pull a little on some wheels. This cuts down big time on broken wheels!!! ![]()
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