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| Quick Customizing - Sharpie Markers; No paint, no mess, fixable mistakes. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 10 2010, 05:40 PM (9,218 Views) | |
| NoirGuru | Jan 10 2010, 05:40 PM Post #1 |
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The All Original Gentleman
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By request, here are some step by step images of how to do customs with Sanford Sharpie Permanent Markers <Or any other oil/other based permanent markers>. On some of my customs, I also use enamel and acrylic paints and toothpicks, but that creates too much mess, and requires brushes, cleaner, and such. And that is why, Sharpie can be the way to go! Things to note before beginning: -Permanent markers are permanent, especially on cloth. So be aware of your surroundings when using them. -Plastic and painted metal diecast surfaces hold permanent marker very well, but still has the ability to rub off when freshly applied or when exposed to humidity or finger oils. -Plastic surfaces <Ex. 2008 MBX Motorhome rear> may bleed over time if exposed to direct heat, light and moisture. -Please work in a well ventilated area, considering we're working close to small details with an open marker. -Please conform to any additional guidelines that may be outlined on the product you're using. *Made a mistake? The same way you remove tampos <Nail polish remover> is a quick way to remove those marks. Be aware that you only need one rub, and a very tiny amount of the solution to remove the marker. Materials: Sanford Sharpie Permanent Markers Fine Point -Use these markers for details that protrude out from the model, or for covering large surfaces like truck bumpers or sides. -Cut the tip with a knife or scissors to make it ideal for special applications! ![]() Micro/Mini Point -Use these markers for hard to reach places, and small details. ![]() Care for your Markers: -Store in a tip down position. <Unless otherwise noted> -Do not shake. -Recap when not in use. -When finished working on a project that required a colour on top of silver, take a piece of paper, and rub the tip out on the sheet, to remove the silver pigment from the other layer. This keeps the colour consistently vivid and the ink flowing. Instructions: -Determine whether you're working on a light or dark surface. Should you be working on a dark surface like this 2009 Matchbox Mini Cooper, we'll be using the Fine Point Silver Metallic Marker. ![]() -Using the silver marker as a form of primer, apply to areas that require additional colour first, to let the layer dry before applying on top of it. ![]() -After at least three minutes in a cool dry area, you may use an additional colour to apply on top of the silver. ![]() -Silver also works well as a detail for small chrome parts on it's own. ![]() -And as easy as that, simple details are complete. ![]() Additional Instructions: -Applying colours to light surfaces is easier still. Simply apply! Shown below is the 2008 MBX Motorhome. ![]() -Simple details like lights on light surfaces make the overall look pop with authenticity. ![]() Additional Instructions 2: -Another example of an application on a dark surface. <Hot Wheels Flashsider> ![]() -Prime the surfaces with silver. ![]() -After letting the first layer dry, apply a second colour or leave the silver for the chrome and lit details. ![]() End Notes: -Certainly not as versatile as paint, but for those details that are simply met, Sharpie markers can do it quick and easy. -I hope this was of some use to someone, and I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one who uses this or these techniques. -The methods I use were done with trial and error ever since I was a child, but I had first used ballpoint gel pens to apply metallic colours and details. <Later on did I find out that they easily rub off, and are water soluble> -Have fun with quick details! |
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| craftymore | Jan 10 2010, 09:15 PM Post #2 |
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Support your local demo derby.
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Thanks for the tutorial Jermaine. Believe these tricks would serve me well if i get some motivation going! |
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| Dadvball | Jan 10 2010, 10:03 PM Post #3 |
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Dadvball
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Thanks for the tutorial. It's amazing what just a little detailing can do to make a big difference in a casting. I use Sharpies myself, but never knew there was a silver metallic, so thanks for that bit of info. The only problem I've had was applying (by brush) the Future Clear for a glossy finish. If the Sharpie color isn't completely dry it will run. |
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| NoirGuru | Jan 11 2010, 12:42 AM Post #4 |
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The All Original Gentleman
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Thanks for looking guys! Yeah, that's the only downside with "permanent" markers. But I do not apply clear coats to any of my models. My favourite thing about the Sharpie markers over brushes, is that they are able to easily follow the groove in a car. Such as the shape of the lights or door trim. |
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| 69Stang | Jan 11 2010, 09:27 PM Post #5 |
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Station Wagon
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Nice outline... |
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| JustDavid | Jan 11 2010, 11:01 PM Post #6 |
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SUV
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By trial and error I learned that Sharpie ink will come off with a dab of NPR on a q-tip. |
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| Snowowl | Feb 16 2010, 11:38 AM Post #7 |
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Minivan
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I've been using Testors paint and a toothpick/sewing pin/very very fine brush for years. This look alot easier and less time consuming along with being less expensive. Thanks for the tip.
Edited by Snowowl, Feb 16 2010, 11:38 AM.
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| NoirGuru | Feb 16 2010, 12:45 PM Post #8 |
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The All Original Gentleman
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For areas where the marker is still just too big, I too use that method. I use Testor's Acrylic paint and Citadel Colour from The Games Workshop. That enables me to scrape off errors without staining the surface. |
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| be77bt | Feb 16 2010, 06:51 PM Post #9 |
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be77bt
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I love the information,will put it to use. |
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| AQUA XK8 | Feb 18 2010, 09:24 PM Post #10 |
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Fullsize
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I've been using the Sharpies for a couple of years and it works well. But I do need to get that orange Sharpie for some lights. I frequently use the red, black, and silver Sharpies. The paint pens I hate are the ones with a ball bearing inside of it that you need to shake every so often. I've had too many of those pens leak. It's good to know that NPR will remove Sharpie mistakes: usually I just wipe it quickly and hope for the best. |
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| Sak | Feb 20 2010, 02:11 PM Post #11 |
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Ezekiel 25:17
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Thank you, Jermaine. I'm out the door to AC Moore. Wow, I'm a poet! And I know it! |
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| GothicCarsUrban | Feb 13 2012, 07:00 PM Post #12 |
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SUV
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For the most part, I use Sharpie-type markers, and am a pretty big fan of the silver ones, I'm not sure where mine are since we had to completely tear the house apart when some of the subflooring was replaced, and we still can't find a lot of stuff, including toy cars. Thankfully they are inexpensive. I use isopropyl rubbing alcohol to remove Sharpie ink, it even removed very old scribbles from a secondhand MC Toys Trabant with no sign of them left. I have no idea what Everclear, laboratory-grade ethanol, methylated spirit or ethyl rubbing alcohol would do, but if one has it on hand, it would be worthwhile to try one of those at removing permanent marker ink. |
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| funeralxempire | Feb 21 2012, 07:14 PM Post #13 |
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SUV
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I prefer to save the Everclear for after I'm done working on the customs.
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| GothicCarsUrban | Feb 21 2012, 07:33 PM Post #14 |
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SUV
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Without derailing the thread too much, I'll say I agree- preferably in orange or grapefruit juice. |
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| diomakr | Feb 21 2012, 09:16 PM Post #15 |
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Station Wagon
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Very interesting- i thought i had mastered these techniques a long time ago- but your tips give me some new ideas...THANKS |
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| diecast.junkie | Oct 5 2012, 05:12 PM Post #16 |
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Compact
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this is very informative. thanks. |
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| funeralxempire | Feb 18 2013, 05:24 PM Post #17 |
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SUV
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Depending on the base colour, Sharpies can make an effective means of staining paint new colours. I find the dark green colour of the '70 HW Celica works well for staining with Sharpies. I've done a blue Civic before this way too, but by tomorrow I'll have 3-4 cars clear coated and I'll have a better idea how well it works. |
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| Phil A. Pino | Oct 2 2013, 01:30 PM Post #18 |
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Midsize
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Thanks for the tips regarding permanent markers. They are a great item for detailing very small parts. After having used them for the past few years I have found that a common pencil eraser works well to remove unwanted lines or mistakes. It is especially useful when the material flows outside of a depressed line. Using the flat side of the eraser allows the ink material to stay in the depression but removes the unwanted ink outside of the line. This method works well when "blackwashing" grilles, too. If the ink gets on the higher portions of the grille, it is easily removed by the eraser, yet the ink in the lower parts is preserved. |
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| daniel60 | Oct 2 2013, 02:39 PM Post #19 |
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Personal Luxury Car
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I told my wife she has to read this. She has a better hand than mine and I have no patience. I wonder if being left-handed makes any difference? |
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| avalanche man | Oct 10 2015, 07:58 PM Post #20 |
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avalanches rule
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I find that it helps to have a sharpie of nearly identical color of the vehicle for when the silver gets on other parts of the car body |
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| diomakr | Oct 11 2015, 08:30 PM Post #21 |
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Station Wagon
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great info for those who didn't know the secret to success with sharpies... I sometimes hold the item upside down if I'm worried about too much paint coming out, and sometimes use a clean toothpick to wipe it off if it runs. I've enlisted my better half to help with the detailing on a lot of mine- saves a lot of time because it can be time consuming to open up all the stuff, glue the wheels, add the tags and paint the details... she's sure getting a lot of practice at it lately. those other paint markers with the ball thing inside can be tricky- I usually only use those to make the street lines |
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| Eurosport94 | Oct 13 2015, 08:26 AM Post #22 |
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Station Wagon
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Ahh never even connected the dots between fine detailing with Sharpies. How does the ink hold up over time? Say, if the car doesn't always just sit on a display shelf. What if fingers touch it, etc? |
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| NoirGuru | Oct 25 2015, 12:51 PM Post #23 |
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The All Original Gentleman
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It stays up very well. My recommendation though is to not use it on parts or surfaces that will be handled often. So that is where it is okay for small details. With the choice details I do, and how often I handle them I've never had a problem. Just mind not having greasy hands! |
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| 69Stang | Oct 25 2015, 05:22 PM Post #24 |
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Station Wagon
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Yep, it will rub off pretty easy. I use the big brand "permanent" markers but they will rub off regardless of that the printed info says. I go with NoirGuru's recommendations and only use where they will not be heavily handled. When I do a wheel or pipe like the photo below, I constantly have to chase the rub offs later... and seldom remember to catch them all. In this pic, I used markers to do the rear wing, the window trim, outer silver of the wheels and the front vent holes. While all those look pretty solid, notice the dings on the pipe, I missed cleaning those back up after handling the car for the decals prior to the photos... ![]() Notice the rear wheel, I speared the ink bu holding it by the tires and did not notice until seeing it in larger photos... ![]() BUT, I still find it the easiest way to do fine details, just make sure you don't touch or touch it back up at a minimum... All the silver trim is marker... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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